|Dashie der otter b1d355c0fa Ok.||1 month ago|
|LightMeterV2||1 month ago|
|PCB||4 months ago|
|pics||4 months ago|
|CALIBRATION.md||4 months ago|
|README.MD||4 months ago|
|USAGE.md||4 months ago|
$ git clone $ cd project/LightMeterV2 $ pio lib install $ pio run $ pio run --target upload
Notes: The TSL25x1 lib I use is either custom, or hacked from anoter one. We setup the sensor and powerup on setup(), then let it run freely.
The sensor do it’s integration time by itself, we NEVER poweroff the sensor, then we read the value as the loop loops.
This is done to avoid the 120ms*integrationTime etc. delay, the loop is ultra fast, then buttons are reactive.
And we can then set the sensor to a high integration value without having 500ms delay introduced in the loop.
The Light Meter isn’t super slim, but not too big, it could get 5mm less easily if the pins connecting the teensyview were trimmed.
Without trimming everything used is stock without modifications. Also the OLED display PCB is way bigger than the LCD itself, and that forbig to reduce by ~3mm without having an ugly PCB popping out. Trimming the pins will be envisaged in the future.
The choosen battery was a BL-5C because I have one spare, but any with a JST connector would do the job, only the middle part and bottom of the enclosure would need redesign. The battery connector is some sort of wire bended, passed through a hole and glued after soldering. Not the best but I didn’t wanted to wait a month to get a small 3-pins 3mm pitch battery connector to design the enclosure.
The stock BL-5C, genuine, is a 1000mAh battery, the Light Meter, with sensor free-running is consuming about 40mA according to the battery charger, which allows between 17 and 25 hours of continus running, in theory. You can still easily swap battery anyway, just bring the right screwdriver, and spare charged batteries with you.
The USB data is hard wired between the D+/D- pads of the teensy to the battery babysitter, allowing to program the teensy from the battery charger directly without doing anything, reset button is useless as we are using the stock teensy bootloader, permitting remote flash and reboot.
The TSL2591 doesn’t permit changing I2C address, you can only have one.
Uses the following:
Some build notes :
pics/main_pcb_battery_babysitter.jpgfor soldering. Also you will have to trim the headers by 5mm on top, to make the display closed to the teensy.
Schematic diagram. Click to enlarge.
3D designed, printed, works great, to be published.
Uses code from: